If symptoms are mild, your doctor may suggest resting the finger or placing it in a custom splint. If there is pain and discomfort, taking a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medication or injecting the area with corticosteroid can be effective.
If pain does not subside after conservative treatment, surgery may be recommended. The most common wrist injury in climbers occurs when there is damage to the triangular fibrocartilage complex TFCC. This is a cartilage structure located on the pinky side of the wrist that sits between the end of the ulna forearm bone and the carpal bones of the wrist.
It provides stability and support when the hand grasps or the arm rotates. When a climber feels the onset of wrist pain and continues to climb, the TFCC can degenerate and even tear. Symptoms include a dull, achy pain on the side of the wrist and sometimes a sharp pain is felt when bending the hand toward the pinky finger.
When diagnosed early, rest, anti-inflammatory medication, and using a splint can typically heal the injury. After the TFCC heals, taping the wrist while climbing can help provide additional stability and support, as well as prevent re-injury.
In more severe cases, surgery is necessary to remove the damaged tissue and clean off the torn edges; this is also known as debriding. Recovery from this procedure includes wearing a cast for several weeks followed by physical therapy to regain range of motion and strength.
A person should not attempt to relocate the dislocated finger themselves. Manipulating the injured finger can cause additional damage to the joint or the surrounding structures. Following medical treatment, dislocated fingers usually take a few weeks to heal. Reduction is the medical term for repositioning the bone into its proper place. You may be given a local anesthetic to numb your pain during the procedure. Your doctor will press against the bone to free it if a piece is still wedged into the joint, and then pull the finger outward to get the bones back in place.
Sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures. The best way to tape is usually to rip off a thin piece and apply it to the back of the injured finger. Then, wrap the wound and overlap the tape a few times. Anchor the other end of the tape to the joint below the wound to prevent it from falling off immediately. The most extreme example of using tape to protect skin is in crack climbing, where you use tape to make a glove, almost like a boxer, to get protection from the rock.
In crack climbing, you often jam and twist your hands inside the rock cracks to get grip, so protecting the back of your hand and knuckles is important. You might not realize it, but your fingers are actually an intricate web of bones, muscles, tendons, joints, and pulleys all working together in a specific way to give you proper hand function. Climbing can stress and injure some or all of the pieces.
Pulleys are particularly susceptible to injury while climbing. Pulleys are rings in each section of your finger that keep your tendons in the correct place while taking on weight. One of the most common climbing injuries is a full or partial tear of the A2 pulley, which takes on a lot of pressure in certain finger-intensive moves, particularly crimps. Cohesive bandage and tubigrip - b oth useful for compression and basic joint support. Preparation and application Wash the area with soap and water; shave the area if hairy, as tape will be more adhesive and less sore to remove.
Apply adhesive or padding if appropriate. Choose width of tape according to hand size but 25mm is most common. Fingers Tape is often useful on injured fingers. If you stave a finger joint, bind it to an adjoining finger. This gives it support. Using zinc, wrap a piece of tape around one finger and into the next, above and below the middle joint.
Place a little padding between the fingers if especially tender. Tape can give extra support to the finger tendons. Use a piece of zinc 25 or 12mm wide, wrap it once around the finger between the joints. This helps sling the tendon and gives it support.
It's trial and error as to how tight and where you place it, but make sure you do not limit the joint's range. Tape is often useful on injured fingers. The ligaments supporting the knuckle joint get damaged. A supportive wrap reduces discomfort and aids function.
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